ピアノーロ・クッディア:受け継がれる記憶.

ピアノーロ・クッディアのブドウ園は北向きで海抜109mに位置します。この農園はブドウ形態学的に興味深い土地にあり、8種のブドウが栽培されていますが、それらはすべて原産で、シチリア島独特のワイン醸造を表現するものです。ピアノーロ・クッディアは35haの面積があり、トラパニ郊外で行われるブドウ栽培の本質を完璧に体現しています。大半がブドウ畑、オリーブ畑、耕地のこの一帯は、数世紀にわたる農民たちの並々ならぬ苦労によって徐々に作り上げられてきたのです。そこでは常に土との関わりの中にその存在を確認してきた共同体の歴史が、まるで地面からしみ出るようにして重ねられてきました。このような文化にとって土地とは最も貴重な財産であり、生命の源であり、より良い収穫を望む全ての家族の希望なのです。忍耐と祈りの力を借りて生き、感じる、神聖なものでもあります。この辺りでは、農作業が無事に行われ、十分な収穫が得られるよう、司祭を呼んで土地に祈りをささげてもらうことも珍しくありません。こんな有形・無形のアイデンティティが、様々な作物の耕地が広がる丘陵地にある田舎の光景の中で息づいているのです。5月も後半になると、優しく力強い自然のパワーが見せる様々な色彩に目を奪われます。小麦が黄色く色づき始め、オリーブの若葉は陽光を受けて銀色に輝きます。そして赤いマグサの花が生命力あふれるブドウ樹の間に見え隠れします。これがフィリアートのシチリア、海と陽光の中で生きる、神と人々に愛される島の生命なのです。

ディテール

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ワイン

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Pianoro Cuddìa

The Vineyard

The compact clay, rich in sodium, throws a spanner in the works of the life and productive cycle of the plants. Firriato has managed, however, to expertly use this limiting factor to their advantage, making it something capable of enhancing the organoleptic complexity of the exceptional raw material (the grapes) whilst respecting the varietal differences of the traditional vines. The land is meticulously worked in correspondence with the need to moderate the plants’ vigour that results from the mineral content of the compact clay. The work begins only after pruning of the trunk, between December and February, and then continues with ground cover to compete with the vines. Emergency irrigation is sometimes essential during the hot season, but only to wash away the surface salt. The northerly exposure influences the microclimate in the vineyards as the seasons change.

Pianoro Cuddìa

Harvest

Inquisitive, but also studious types who are interested in learning about one of Sicily’s most deep rooted identities, would find what they are looking for at Pianoro Cuddìa. The native vine varieties that grow here are a symbol of Firriato’s philosophy: to enhance the biodiversity that the island’s ampelographic heritage represents.
Each variety is individually harvested by hand, ensuring that each wine tank can be precisely traced back to the portion of the vineyard of its origin. This makes for a complex and frenzied harvest calendar, but perhaps also a more exciting one. Grillo and Catarratto follow close behind, however, if the climatic conditions of that vintage have not been regular and it has been very hot, their harvest time is brought forward so the grapes’ acidity and freshness are not lost. Mid-September it is the turn of Nero d’Avola and Frappato, red grapes which have a similar harvest start time. At the end of the month arrives the moment for the latest of all the varieties, Perricone. Perricone is Pianoro Cuddìa’s star varietal, and with regular climate trends without extreme heat, it can indeed be harvested by the end of September.

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Pianoro Cuddìa

Terroir

Water is the fundamental element in the development of any form of life, vines are no exception. The consistently marked presence of clay in Pianoro Cuddìa’s soils causes the plants an elevated level of water stress. The plants, conversely, require huge quantities of water. Firriato, ever faithful to its philosophy, has had the know-how to adopt the most suitable farming practices for producing maximum results in the vineyards of this estate, without upsetting the delicate balance of salt in the soil. In the wines, this maintains and enhances all the specific characteristics of their terroir of origin. The plants produce exquisite but smaller than average grapes here, and that is the reason that the red wines are richer in anthocyanins and polyphenols, which are precious supporters of human health. Varieties like Perricone, which is itself already rich in resveratrol (which helps clear arteries and is good for the heart), finds one of the best habitats for growth on this estate.

Pianoro Cuddìa

The wines

Pianoro Cuddìa is a blessed location, a real apogee of the quality and variety present in Sicilian vineyards. It is here that Firriato’s top labels like Ribeca come to life. Ribeca is an extraordinary single varietal Perricone with a smoothness and fruity intensity that interplays with aromas of Mediterranean scrub. It is one of the most elegant and ambitious wines on the Sicilian wine scene as well as the catalyst for prizes and recognition among the most prestigious guides. Then there are the two Quarter Vitis labels, both red and white which are the embodiments of the dream of encapsulating Sicilian native varieties in one glass. Quarter Bianco (a blend of Grillo, Catarratto, Zibibbo, and Carricante from Etna) and its brother Quarter Rosso (a blend of Nero d’Avola, Perricone, Frappato, and Nerello Cappuccio from Etna) are wines which have achieved their ambition of expressing Sicily’s complexity, rediscovering a bright future for its vineyards.

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